Marine Fish Quarantine Setup and Care Guide
Share
Quarantine is an essential step that protects your display tank and gives new fish time to recover and aclimate into their new home. Some fish are more sensitive than others, and some medications can cause stress if used incorrectly. The goal of this protocol is to minimize stress, maintain stable water quality, and provide a controlled environment for observation and treatment. This is one approach. You are encouraged to research reputable sources to select the quarantine style that fits your experience and the species you keep.
What You Need
1. Quarantine Tank (40 to 120 liters)
- 40 to 60 liters for small and medium fish.
- 80 to 120 liters for larger species or multiple fish.
2. Heater and Thermometer
- Maintain 24 to 26 degrees Celsius.
- Check temperature daily.
3. Filtration and Aeration
- Sponge filter, HOB filter, or internal filter for gentle flow.
- Air pump with an air stone for good oxygenation.
- If the tank is not cycled, seed a sponge filter or media from an established aquarium.
- For medicated QT use plastic bio-balls or unseeded sponges that will not absorb medication.
4. Ammonia Monitoring
- Use an ammonia alert badge or a good test kit.
- Ammonia is the most common cause of fish loss in quarantine.
5. Cover
A lid or mesh prevents fish from jumping.
6. Hiding Structures
- PVC elbows or plastic decor only.
- Avoid live rock, sand, or porous materials which can trap pathogens and absorb medications.
7. Buckets, Siphon, and Mixing Containers
Dedicated to quarantine only to prevent cross contamination.
8. Water Conditioner
Seachem Prime or similar products provide temporary ammonia binding in emergencies.
9. Salt Mix or Natural Seawater
Keep extra water ready for changes.
10. Light Source
A basic clip-on light or ambient lighting is enough. Avoid bright lighting early on.
11. Medications
Keep appropriate medications on hand. Details are provided on individual treatment pages.
Step 1: Setting Up the Quarantine Tank
Choose the Location
- Place indoors away from direct sunlight and drafts.
- Keep QT at least 4 meters from the display tank or ideally in a different room.
Fill the Tank
- Use premixed saltwater or natural seawater at 1.025 to 1.026 SG (34 to 35 ppt).
- If possible, cycle the tank with established bio-media or bottled bacteria.
Install Equipment
- Add heater, filter, and air stone.
- Set temperature to 25 to 27 degrees Celsius.
- Add PVC hiding structures.
- Place an ammonia alert badge where it is easy to see.
- Fit a secure lid or mesh cover.
4. Lighting and Aeration
Keep lighting moderate. Ensure surface agitation for proper gas exchang.
Step 2: Acclimating the Fish
1. Match Parameters
If store water salinity is close to your QT parameters, acclimation can be quicker. Otherwise, use slow acclimation.
2. Temperature Acclimation
Dim lights. Float the sealed bag in the QT for 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Salinity and pH Acclimation
Open the bag and add a small amount of QT water every 5 to 10 minutes. Continue for about 30 to 40 minutes.
4. Transfer the Fish
Net the fish or use a specimen container to avoid transferring store water. Do not pour bag water into the QT.
5. Initial Observation
Keep lights dim for a few hours. Watch for rapid breathing, abnormal swimming, or severe stress.
Step 3: Daily Care and Observation
1. Feeding
- Feed once or twice per day using high quality foods.
- Offer appropriate diets for the species and use vitamin enriched or omega 3 enriched foods for immune support.
- Remove uneaten food after 5 to 10 minutes.
2. Health Checks
Look for:
- White spots
- Heavy breathing
- Flashing or scratching
- Poor appetite
- Faded colour or frayed fins
- Lethargy or unusual hiding
- Mucus excess or wounds
Behavior changes often signal early disease.
3. Water Monitoring
- Check ammonia daily.
- Confirm temperature remains stable.
- Test salinity every few days.
4. Stress Reduction
- Keep the area quiet.
- Add extra PVC if fish seem nervous.
- Avoid sudden bright lighting.
Step 4: Water Changes (Every 3 Days or As Needed)
1. Preparation
Turn off heater and filter. Prepare saltwater at matched salinity and temperature.
2. Remove Water
Siphon out about 50 percent of the water while removing detritus from the bottom. A partial change avoids the stress of capturing fish for a full water change.
3. Refill the Tank
Slowly add clean saltwater. Redose medications if used and if the medication requires replacement after water changes.
4. Ammonia Emergencies
Use Prime or AmGuard to temporarily bind ammonia. Follow with larger or more frequent water changes.
Step 5: Cleaning and Maintenance
1. Filter Care
Rinse sponges or media in old tank water every 1 to 2 weeks. Dont rinse in tap water.
2. Equipment Separation
Keep buckets, hoses, and tools labeled for QT only. Never share tools between QT and display tank.
3. Record Keeping
Track water tests, feeding, medication, and fish behavior.
|
✅ Do |
❌ Don’t |
|
Use separate tools for QT |
Share tools between QT and display tank |
|
Keep fish isolated for a minimum of 14 days |
Add fish to display early |
|
Observe fish daily |
Skip water testing or water changes |
|
Label QT buckets/equipment |
Use medications without understanding their effects |
|
Maintain stable temperature and salinity |
Add rock or sand that cannot be disinfected |
|
Test ammonia regularly |
|
When Quarantine Ends
1. Timeline
- Minimum of 14 days without visible symptoms is acceptable for simple observation quarantine.
- Many aquarists prefer 4 to 6 weeks for maximum safety.
- If you are treating a known parasite, follow the timeline recommended in the relevant treatment guide.
2. Final Observation
Fish should eat normally, swim calmly, and show no signs of external parasites or disease.
3. Transfer to Display
- Match temperature and salinity between tanks or acclimate slowly.
- Net the fish or use a specimen container.
- Avoid transferring QT water.
4. Cleaning the QT
- Drain and disinfect the tank, PVC, sponge filters, and equipment with diluted bleach or aquarium disinfectant.
- Rinse thoroughly and let everything air dry before storing or reusing.
Final Notes
A well managed quarantine system greatly reduces disease introduction and gives fish time to recover from transport stress. Stability, low stress, and close observation are the foundation of success. Medications should be used only when needed and with proper understanding of the pathogen being treated.